Daisy Yoga Mat Bag

June 05, 2018

Daisy Yoga Mat Bag

This piece is made using a mixture of crochet and knitting.

Materials:

2ply, Lace yarn in 4 different colours of your choice (Mine,I used Hot Pink, Light Pink, Tiffany Blue, White and a little Yellow.)

2.5mm Crochet Hook

3.0mm Knitting Needle. (works well with circular needles)

Yarn Needle

1 x Invisible Snap Button

1 set of Buckles for Bag Strap

Size:

Fits W 24 x D 4.5 inch Yoga Mat

Stitches:

Crochet

Ch: Chain

SS: Slip Stitch

SC: Single Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

DC: Double Crochet

TR: Treble Crochet

FPdc: Front Post Double Crochet

BPdc: Back Post Double Crochet

Knitting

K: Knit

Notes:

This piece work from bottom up, staring from the base to body, ending with the ‘pull string’ opening.

Lastly, we will work separately on the pull string; the pocket and the bag strap.

Base:

Begin with Magic Ring using the Yellow yarn.

Row 1:Ch 3 (this is counted as 1 stitch), Work another 11 DC in the Ring. SS to join with the Ch 3 from the start.

You should now have 12 Stitches. Tighten the ring to form a Circle with the 12 DC. Cut off and weave in the excess Yellow yarn as you move along.

Row 2:With White yarn, join with a SS to where you have ‘Cut Off’ in Row 1. Ch 3. In the same stitch, do 2 TR together with the Ch 3. Ch 2 and SS to the next stitch. You have now created a petal (out of the 12 petals) of the Daisy.

Continue to “Ch 3, do 2 TR together with the Ch 3. Ch 2 and SS to the next Stitch”, until the end and join with a SS to where you have first joined the white yarn.

Now you have total of 12 petals and your Daisy is completed.

Do *NOT* cut off the yarn yet, just bring UP the white yarn as you work into the next 2 rows.

Row 3:Join with Pink yarn to the tip of your Daisy petal. Ch 1, SC in the same stitch. Ch 4, SC in the next stitch at the tip of your Daisy petal. Continue to work “Ch 4, SC in the next stitch” until the end and join with a SS to the first SC of the row.

Row 4:SS to the Ch 4 space created from the previous row. Ch 4 (this will be counted as 1 TR), work 4 more TR in the same Ch 4 space. [Ch 1 and work 5 TR in the next Ch 4 space]. Continue from within the […] till the end of the row, Ch 1 and join with a SS to the Ch 4 from start of Row 4. Cut off.

Remember to weave in the excess pink yarn as you move along.

Row 5:Work back the White yarn from Row 2. SS to the Ch 1 space from previous row. Ch 1, SC in the same space. Ch 6 and SC into the next Ch 1 space. Continue on “Ch 6 and SC into the next Ch 1 space” until you reach the end of the row. SS to join with the first SC of the row.

Row 6:SS to the Ch 6 space from Row 5, Ch 1 & SC in the same Ch space. Repeat the same pattern “Ch 6 and SC into the next Ch 6 space”. SS to join with the first SC of the row.

Cut off and remember to weave in the excess yarn as you move along the piece.

Row 7:Join the Blue yarn in the Ch 6 space from Row 6. Ch 1 and work 10 SC in the same space. Skip the SC stitch from previous row and continue to work 10 SC into the next Ch 6 space till the end. Join with a SS.

You should now have 120 stitches in this row.

Row 8:Ch 1 and SC in each of the 120 stitches. Join with a SS. Cut off.

Body (Main):

We will start off the bodywith knit stitch.

Row 1:Using a Light Pink yarn, join it to the base where we end off Row 8 above. Working on BACK Loops only, use the crochet hook to (assist in) hooking up the yarn through all the 120 stitches onto the knitting needle. Place a stitch marker on the last stitch of Row 1 as marking – this is so that as you move upward, you know where’s the end of the knitting row.

Row 2 – 103: Work only on knit stitch throughout until the Main part reaches approximately 10 inches long.

Row 104:Cast off. *Do not cut off the yarn.

Continue to work on the Mesh (netting)

Row 1:Ch 1, 1 SC in the same stitch. Ch 2, skip 2 (knit) stitch, 1 SC. Repeat, “Ch 2, skip 2 (knit) stitch, 1 SC” until the end of the row. Join with a SS to the first SC of the row.

Row 2:SS to the first Ch 2 space (created in Row 1). Ch 1, SC in the same space, Ch 2, SC in the next Ch 2 space. Repeat “Ch 2, SC in the next Ch 2 space” until the end of the row, Ch2 and join with a SS to the first SC.

Row 3 – 63:Repeat row 2 until you have 62 more rows or at least 14 inches long when stretched. Join with a SS at the end of Row 63 and cut off the yarn.

Move on to work on the opening of the bag, we will rejoin with the Blue yarn.

Row 1:Ch 3, work a DC in each and every SC & ch 2 space from the previous row (Row 63). Join with a SS to the Ch 3 stitch.

You should have a total of 80 stitches, including the first Ch 3.

Row 2 – 8: Ch 3 and work a DC in the next 79 stitches. Join with a SS to the Ch 3.

In row 9 & 10, we will work on this format – “1 front post & 1 back post, 1 front post & 1 back post”

Row 9:Ch 3 (this will count as a FPdc). 1 BPdc, 1 FPdc. Repeat, 1 BPdc, 1 FPdc till end of row and join with a SS to the Ch 3.

Row 10:Repeat the same as Row 9.

Row 11:Ch 1 and make 1 SC in each and every of the 80 stitches.

Row 12:SS to the next SC stitch from previous row, Ch 3 and do another DC 4 in the same stitch.

(This will create the first scallop pattern for the final row.)

Skip 2 stitch and make DC 5 in the following stitch. Continue to work on the pattern “skip 2 stitches and make DC 5 in the next stitch” until the end of the row, join with a SS to the first Ch 3. You should have 26 scallops.

Cut off and weave in all the loose ends.

Heart-Shaped Pull String:

Make 4 x Heart Shapewith the Pink yarn first:

-You can refer to the diagram below to get a better illustration

Row 1: Ch 6, SC in the 2nd chain from hook. SC in the next 4 ch. Ch 1 and turn. [5 SC]

Row 2 – 4: SC in all the 5 stitches. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: We will repeat Row 2 – 4, except that in Row 5, we do not turn after making the Ch 1.

From here, we will make DC 5 in the 3^rdstitch. Ch 1 and do a SS to the 5^thstitch created in row 5. Ch 1 again.

Now we will rotate the piece with the side way up, make another DC 5 into the side stitch of row 3, end with a SS to the first Ch 1 from the very beginning of the piece. Leave a long tail for the stitching up later and cut off the excess.

Pull String:

Using White yarn & knitting needles, cast on 5 stitches and work upwards with all knit stitch on.

Work until you have at least 15 – 20 inches long, depending to how long you want your “pull string” to be.

Cast off, cut and weave in the loose ends.

Using 2 x the Hearts you have made earlier on, with back-facing-back, sew it on to one end of the White Pull Stringusing the long tail you left behind from making the Heart.

Sew on the remaining 2 Heartson the other end of the of the Pull Stringtoo.

^^You might want to loop in the Pull String to ‘in-between’ gaps of the FPdc & BPdc stitches in Row 9 of the opening of the bagfirst, before sewing the other 2 hearts for the other end of the Pull String.

Pocket:

This is optional, you can choose if you did like to add a pocket or not to your Yoga Mat Bag.

I purposely added mine so I can keep my HP and a small purse in it. This way, I don’t need to bring an extra bag out when I go for my Yoga Class.

Using the Light Pink yarn,

Row 1:Ch 32, DC in the 5^thCh from hook. Work another 27 DC in the following 27 Ch. Ch3 and turn.

Row 2:Work a total of 28 DC in all the 28 stitches (including the chain 3 stitch, count as 1 stitch). Ch 3 and turn.

Row 3:Work a FPdc on alternate stitch, meaning 1 FPdc, 1 DC, 1 FPdc, 1 DC until the end of the row. Ch 3 and turn.

Row 4:Work all 28 DC till end of row, Ch 3 and turn.

Row 5:On alternate stitch, do the FPdc again, like in row 3.

Row 6:Work all 28 DC till end of row, Ch 3 and turn.

Repeat Row 3 and Row 4 until you have a total of 22 rows.

At end of Row 22, we will Ch 1 and do a SC in round, around the sides of the whole piece. Join with a SS.

Cut off and leave a long tail for sewing later.

You can sew on the piece to the ‘Main’ of the bag, depending on where you would like to place your pocket on. I sew mine on the “back” bottom of my bag, on the knitted part of the body.

Remember to sew ONLY 3 sides of the piece, leaving an opening to create the “pocket”. Also, sew on the snap button if you would prefer your things to be kept securely. Otherwise your belongings mine drop off easily once you remove the yoga mat from the bag.